A Stairway to Heaven – leading to the Garden of Eden in Kings Canyon

The Stairway to Kings Canyon, Watarrka – NT

My head tilted back and my neck craned to follow the line of rugged rocky ‘steps’ rising steeply and unevenly towards the distant cobalt blue sky –

Stairway to Kings Canyon Rim Walk

Can you spot the little blue specks in the left photo? They’re people making their ascent to get to the Rim of Kings Canyon…

There are approximately 500 “steps” to be surmounted to get to the top of Kings Canyon, (which is 465km/290miles by road SW of Alice Springs or 300 km/185miles NE of Uluru in Australia’s Red Centre) where the Rim Walk starts – but once there… you are taken on a magical 6 km (3.75 mile) circuit through ancient arid ‘bee-hive’ rock formations around the top of the Canyon – and then down into the contrasting hidden Garden of Eden.

Garden of Eden at the base of Kings Canyon

Entering what feels like a lost paradise – The Garden of Eden in Kings Canyon

For many, this ‘stairway’ appears to be too large a feat of endurance, so forms both the beginning and (sadly) the end of their expedition… And it does look a little daunting – but… slow and steady wins the race and as long as you don’t approach it with the mind of a Rock Wallaby, and gently climb just a few steps at a time, you’ll find yourself at the top in less than half an hour, and while I can’t quite say its all downhill from there, I can say you’ll be more than rewarded for your effort.

Kings CanyonWhen we set out, about 8am on this August morning, there was still a winter’s chill to the air – But don’t be fooled into believing its going to stay that way –
I recommend you carry twice as much water as you think you’ll need as whatever you think you’ll need, is rarely enough…
And up on the rim, as the sun rises to its pounding zenith, with the hard red rock reflecting the heat back up from beneath your feet, the dry desert atmosphere sucks the moisture from your body – even in the so called cooler months.

The Rock Domes on the Rim Walk

Visually, my first impression of the bee-hive like domes on the top was their similarity to Purnululu (Bungle Bungles, WA).

Bee-Hive rock formations at Kings Canyon

At Kings Canyon, these sandstone rock formations give off a ‘Lost City’ feel having been formed from 20 million years of wind and rain erosion.

Bee-hive dome rock formations on the top of the Rim Walk
Having started out as cube shaped blocks bounded by intersecting cracks the weathering process has rounded off all the corners leaving these beautiful shaped domes interspersed by flat rock.

Rock DomesTo the local Luritja people of the Watarrka National Park area the domes are Kuninga* men who travelled through here in the Tjukurpa (the Dreamtime).
*Kuninga is the Luritja name for the western quoll.

Cotterill’s Bridge

It’s not long before we reach our first diversion to Cotterill’s Bridge – It takes us across a chasm to a vantage point with spectacular views of the north wall.

Originally built by Jack Cotterill in 1962 of timber, slabs of sandstone and 8 gauge fencing wire, it collapsed in 1991 (remains can be viewed if you look down when crossing) so was replaced with this sturdier metal version –

Cotterills Bridge Kings Canyon Rim Walk

The picture on the right was taken the next day from the Canyon floor –
Viewed from below it was amazing watching people cross what appeared such a precarious bridge!

The following day when we did the shorter Kings Creek walk we were able to see the bridge from the Canyon floor below – Looking up from the creek bed the bridge looked positively precarious as people crossed the chasm.

But from the top – It was beautiful looking out both ways – down the canyon (left hand photo below) to get a glimpse of the sheer edge that lay beneath our feet, and up the canyon (right hand photo) where you could see people starting the decent down the man-made steps that lead to the Garden of Eden.

Looking both ways on the Rim Walk at Kings Canyon

Or simply looking out across the canyon to the north wall, from this stunning elevated platform.

Linda at Kings Canyon

The Garden of Eden

A series of wooden steps takes you back down to the Canyon floor…

Steps to Garden of Eden

To the hidden Garden of Eden, where there’s a feeling of abundance as the water draws the wildlife into this microcosm.

Garden of Eden at Kings Canyon

Leaving the heat and the dry domes exposed to the sun on the top it was a treat to come down into this shady-glady oasis of water in Australia’s arid Red Centre.

To the Traditional Owners this is an important men’s sacred place, where their Tjukurpa (Dreaming) stories are too sensitive to share publicly. But the preciousness of this water source is highly respected by all so no swimming is permitted lest it get contaminated and endanger the hundreds of species that rely on its health and longevity for their survival.

"If you keep the water healthy, you keep the plants and animals healthy" Traditional Owners, Watarrka

I wish, as a global community, we could adopt their simple but oh so effective mantra:

“If you keep the water healthy, you keep the plants and animals healthy” 

Garden of Eden at the base of Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon

But what goes down has to go back up!

What goes down, has to go back up - Climbing back up to the Rim from the Garden of Eden

And once back up on the top the views of the Canyon from the northern side seemed to get even bigger and better!

Kings Canyon

For those of a curious disposition –

This is how Kings Canyon was formed…

Kings Canyon creation

Although from this side, it looks as though a knife has sliced though it like butter 😉

Kings Canyon

 

A slice of Kings Canyon


The 6km
(3.75 mile) Kings Canyon Rim Walk took us a little under 5 hours to complete – a bit more than the ‘official’ recommendation of 3 to 4 hours that we read in most information; but we took our time to wonder at the vistas, breath in the red centre air, admire the vegetation, observe the wildlife and occasionally just sit and ‘be’.

After making the effort to climb those 500 steps it was a place I was not going to rush 😉

The Rim Walk at Kings Canyon Story-Map

My Story-Map of The Rim Walk at Kings Canyon

It was a place that had long been on my bucket list –

And I’m happy to say, it didn’t disappoint 🙂

Do you have any places that have been on your bucket list forever… ?

Do share in the comments below 😀

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27 thoughts on “A Stairway to Heaven – leading to the Garden of Eden in Kings Canyon

  1. Breathtaking! I had no knowledge of this amazing and unusual place. What a thorough account of your trek. Great photos too. I just found your site through the Boomer Travel Bloggers FB group. I’ll be back for a longer visit!

  2. Judging by your photos, narrative and story map, this hike seems well worth the exertion. I don’t love heights, but I think I could manage the bridges and staircases as long as they have railings. (I did manage to handle the suspension bridges on the Milford Track in New Zealand). However, the photo with the white writing on it and the guy standing right next to the edge gives me heart palpitations. Does the trail go there or was he just being overly curious/daring/foolish?

    • I’d say he was “being overly curious/daring/foolish” LOL
      The circuit takes you along the top, but its up to you how close to the edge you get!!
      And yes, the exertion was well worth the effort – We went back to our camp with a big smile on our faces – very satisfying 🙂

  3. This looks fantastic and quite like Zion National Park in Utah, USA. There is a King’s Canyon in California as well. We once climbed 600+ stairs to the top of Vernal Falls in Yosemite National Park and while it proved to be utterly exhausting, the pay off at the top was well-worth the effort. Glad you can check 1 off of the bucket list.

  4. This looks like an amazing place and I love the idea of finding a Garden of Eden in such seemingly hostile scenery. Your photos are so descriptive, but what I love the most? Well, I can’t help but being bowled over by your story maps. Just gorgeous.

    • Maybe it’s the strong contrasts of arid and verdant that amplifies the impression you get of each?
      And thanks so much for the compliment re the Story-Map 🙂

  5. Inspiring! I have not been to Kings Canyon but you have certainly made me put it on my ever increasing list of places to visit….and we don’t have to travel 24 hrs to see it! I agree with Jo…your sketch is fabulous!

    • It was fantastic – and because the circuit is recommended to be walked anti-clockwise you feel fairly alone while doing it (as you’re all going the same way you don’t often pass someone else!)
      And ditto – I believe in having a healthy respect for the dangers of nature 😉

  6. Nice article. We were in Kings Canyon about 2 years ago and your article brings back nice memories. Fortunately, it was reasonably cool the day we went and the colors of the area were vivid as ever.

    • I must say I was happy we did it in August – a so-called ‘cool’ time of year!
      Otherwise – starting at dawn, and maybe carrying an umbrella for shade may have been the go?
      I love the landscapes in this region of Australia – The RED of the centre really is magnificent 🙂

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    • While the Rock is the initial lure I agree – when you get there you discover that:
      a) it’s not the only attraction, and
      b) places like Kings Canyon, Kata Tjuta’s Valley of the Winds walk, and
      c) the simple magic of being in the arid red centre where the desert oaks whistle in the wind
      all vie for your attention and demand to be the top spot!

    • Happy to hear you enjoyed the post – and my illustrated story map of the Rim Walk at Kings Canyon –
      I did a story-map to illustrate everyday of that trip to the Northern Territory – You may also recognize one of the last ones into Jim Jim and Twin Falls – which I absolutely loved!
      Here’s the link 🙂
      http://bit.ly/StoryMapsNT

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